Energy Conservation

With the help of an energy conservation analysis, we can lower our demand for electricity which then lowers the amount of fossil fuels the power plant must burn. This in turn lowers the carbon dioxide emissions from the power plant but also means that less coal must be mined. Therefore, less fuel for mining equipment is used and CO2 emissions are lowered even more. As you can see, the small steps we take at home can have a much larger effect than we might at first believe.

Heating and Cooling Systems

For the average home, the heating and cooling systems use 30-60% of the total energy consumption. With energy prices on the rise, it is more important than ever to ensure the home is as efficient as possible. The easiest way to save money in this area, is to install a programmable thermostat if you have an older control. You can also explore other methods of cooling the home such as a whole house fan.

Most homeowners are talked into replacing their hvac systems to save money. While it is true that a new hvac system can be more efficient, it may not always be the best use of limited funds. Usually it is better to spend the money on lowering the home's heat gain or loss. Then, your energy savings can help you to pay for those other home improvements such as replacing the hvac system. Improvements to lower the home's heat gain/loss will also allow you to purchase a smaller system when the time comes. This will save you a lot of money!

Start at the top

The attic is a good place to start your energy conservation analysis. If you have little or no insulation, installing or adding more can significantly reduce your home's energy use. You can even add insulation value to your walls and ceilings by painting. With modern coatings and paint additives, you can actually lower the heating and cooling needs of your home by painting. The next time you paint, insulate at the same time.

You should also ensure that the attic has sufficient ventilation. An attic that is not properly ventilated is hotter than one that is. The heat that builds up in the attice is then transferred to the inside of the home through the ceiling. This, in turn, causes the home's air conditioner to run longer and your electricity bill to go up. This can not only save you energy dollars but can make your home last longer.

If the access to the attic is located in a conditioned space, you should ensure that the hatch is insulated. It should also be sealed with weatherstripping or an attic hatch cover.

The home's exterior

Another factor that affects the heat gain or loss of the home is air leaks. You can usually find these by feeling the air come into the home on a windy day.

Old single pane windows are one of the largest sources of these drafts. They typically have wooden frames that have shrunk and leave gaps for the air to enter. If you cannot afford to replace them (or if you rent the home), you can purchase kits to seal them in the winter. These kits usually consist of a clear plastic film and doublesided tape. They are inexpensive and can save you 5-15% on your heating bills.

Another common source of these drafts are the outlets and switch boxes located on exterior walls. You can purchase foam gaskets to place behind the cover plates. They are inexpensive and will pay for themselves in less than one heating season.

Exterior doors are another common source of these drafts. This can usually be cured by weatherstripping around the doors and installing a sweep at the bottom of the door. Both of these things are inexpensive but effective.

Another factor that affects the heating and/or cooling load for the home is the amount of sunlight that enters the home. Have you ever gotten into a car that has sat in a parking lot on a sunny day? If you have, then you have witnessed passive solar heating. This may be good when the weather is cold but when you are trying to keep your home cool it is not. It can be a delicate balance between allowing enough light into the home and increasing the load on your air conditioner.

There are options to solve this problem such as replacement windows with a "low e" coating or dynamic window shades. These blinds or shades can be operated by motors and controlled automatically to keep the warm sunlight out. These units can also be integrated into a home automation system and open/closed based on the temperature in the home.

Home appliances

Next, you should continue your energy conservation analysis by examining your home's appliances. They typically account for about 20% of the home's energy use. The refrigerator, clothes washer, and the clothes dryer are the major users of this energy. If the appliances are more than 10 years old, you should plan on replacing them with energystar qualified units.

The refrigerator's energy use can be minimized with routine maintenance. The coil on the unit which is either mounted on the bottom or the back of the unit should be cleaned at least once per year. This is a simple matter of removing the dust and dirt with a vacuum cleaner.

You should also test the door gaskets on the refrigerator and freezer. This can be done by placing a dollar bill in the door opening, closing the door, and trying to pull it out. If the dollar bill comes out easily, the gaskets should be replaced. It is an easy diy project.

On the clothes washer, you can save energy dollars by lowering the water temperature. It is even better if you wash your clothes in cold water. With advances in detergents, we can now get our clothes clean without using hot water and they will even last longer.

The lint trap on the clothes dryer should be cleaned before every load. You should also inspect the vent for buildup of lent at least once per year.

Saving on the cost of heating the home's water

Your home energy conservation analysis should continue by examining your water heater. The home's water heater can account for about 13% of the home's total energy use. If you have an electric storage heater, then, the thermostats should be set to 120 F. You can also install a blanket to minimize the standby losses. You can also install a timer so that the heater only maintains the water temperature at programmed times during the day.

You may also want to consider replacing the old unit with a tankless hot water heater or a heat pump water heater and save even more. Another option is to install a drain water heat recovery system.

Saving on lighting the home

The next thing to consider in your energy conservation analysis is your home's lighting systems. Nobody wants to sit in the dark or go back to using candles but their are some upgrades that you can do to reduce the amount of electricity required. The home's interior lights typically use 11% of the home's energy. This can be reduced with advanced technology such as compact flourescent bulbs, LED lighting or through passive lighting such as roof windows.

Electricity thieves

Finally, your energy conservation analysis should consider electric loads that are spending your hard earned money even when you think they are off. These are commonly called "phantom loads" and they are prevalent in every home. All of those little lights on appliances, tv, computers, power strips, etc. use electricity and the cost can add up to be significant.

Even in standby modes, many appliances can use 50% of the electricity that is required when they are on. These loads can be conveniently turned off and on with the installation of green switches, smart power strips, or occupancy sensors. The savings can be from 25-45% on the utility bill!

Implementing these ideas

After completion of your home's energy conservation analysis, you can implement these energy saving ideas easily. Instead of just randomly picking things to do, you should come up with a list of priorities based on the characteristics of your home and the climate in which you live. For example, it makes no sense to upgrade your hvac system if you live in an area where you don't use it very often.

If you would like more assistance in conserving energy, you can utilize our consulting services. For a small fee we will assist you in performing an energy conservation analysis as well as designing a customized plan for your home or business.

Thermostats

A thermostat is a device that automatically turns a hvac system on and off. It does this by sensing the temperature around it and operating an electrical switch, as necessary, to turn on and off the home's hvac systems to maintain your desired temperature. These units can either control line voltage (120 or 240 volt) or low voltage (usually 24 volts). Normally the low voltage units are used on forced air heating and cooling systems as well as some hydronic systems. The line voltage units are typically used on electric heating systems as well as combi boilers.

There are two main types mechanical or digital. The difference in them is what force closes the electrical switch.

A mechanical unit can contain a vial of mercury. This mercury moves and closes or opens the switch. These are being phased out for a couple of reasons. First, the mercury is bad for the environment. Secondly, if these are not perfectly level they will not operate properly. It is common for the temperature to vary as much as 5 degrees from the setpoint. Other mechanical units use a piece a metal that expands and contracts with changes in temperature. This expansion or contraction causes the electrical contacts to open and close. These units are commonly called "snap action" thermostats.

A digital unit opens or closes the switch using a small electrical signal. These units are a lot more accurate which usually results in saving money on utility bills. The temperature normally will not vary more than 1 degree. They also can have added features on them. They can be battery powered or powered by the furnace low voltage transfomer. Some can be used with both power sources.

The units can be either single stage or multistage units. Which one you choose depends on the type of hvac systems you have. Most central air conditioners with a seer of 15 or more are two stage units. Some gas furnaces have two stages as well. Heat pumps usually require at least two stage heating.

Some digital units are programmable. This allows you to adjust the home's temperature to save energy when you are not there. Typically, they have four temperature setpoints and four times associated with them. Normally, they are referred to as wake, leave, return, and sleep.

Because there are many more factors to consider for making your home comfortable, the ultimate units control so much more than just the temperature of the air in the home. They sense the humidity in the home and correct as needed. Some units allow the furnace fan to operate periodically. This can be used to ensure adequate fresh air is supplied to the home. This can improve overall indoor air quality significantly which can also improve the health of you and your family.

When combined with two stage furnaces and air conditioners, these units can save energy by running in the lower speed. Then, when necessary, they can automatically change the speed to high to meet the home's heating or cooling needs.

The latest innovation incorporates wireless technology. These units eliminate the need for control wires from the thermostat to the heating unit. They can be a very good option in older homes where the wiring is insufficient for modern hvac systems. The most advanced units are incorporated into a home automation system. These are referred to as communicating thermostats and  allow you to control them over the internet through your smartphone. Some of them even monitor the home and send email alerts if something is wrong.

One of the most important things about your hvac control is it's location. Unless it is wireless, the unit should be mounted on an interior wall. It should be about five feet up from the wall and out of direct sunlight. It should be in a room that is central and frequently used. Most times it is placed in a central hallway if one is available.

The unit should not be located near any appliance that gives off heat such as lamps etc. The unit should be where it is in the normal airflow patterns but not where it will be affected by opening and closing doors. It should not be located behind a door.

Humidifiers

A humidifier is a device that adds water vapor to the home's air to improve it's air quality. There are two general types of units (portable and whole house). The type of unit that is best for you will depend on the type of heating and air conditioning system that you have and whether you own or rent your home.

Portable units are a good option for renters as well as homeowners that do not have duct systems for heating and cooling. The disadvantages of this type is that they usually require you to fill a reservoir every day and they normally need maintenance more often.

Wholehouse units typically require maintenance two times per year and they automatically fill the water reservoir. Normally, you set and adjust a humidistat and the system takes care of itself.

There are four types of whole house units. The first type consists of a pan of water, a wheel with a pad on it, a control to turn it on and off, and a tiny motor to turn the wheel. These are called drum style humidifiers.

Some of the warm air from the outlet of the heating system is diverted to the inlet of the unit. When the furnace fan is running in the heat mode, the transformer for the humidifier is energized and 24 volt power is supplied to the humidistat.

When the humidistat senses that the relative humidity is below the setpoint, 24 volt power is supplied to a tiny motor in the unit. This motor spins a drum with a foam pad on it. The pad passes through the pan of water and absorbs some of the water. The warm air from the furnace outlet passes through the foam pad and picks up moisture through evaporation. The air then enters the furnace return duct and passes through the furnace and into the supply ducts where it is distributed throughout the home.

These require more maintenance than the flow through type to keep them working properly. The maintenance includes cleaning the water pan and replacing the pad. Also, if the system is not properly shutdown in the summer, the standing water in the pan can allow biological growth.

The main advantage of this type is that they typically use less water to maintain a given humidity level.

The next style uses a metal pad, a water valve, and a control to turn it on and off. This type is referred to as bypass flow through units. When the furnace fan is running in the heating mode, 24 volt power is supplied to the humidistat. When the humidistat senses that the relative humidity is below the setpoint, 24 volt power is supplied to the water valve. This opens the valve and allows water to enter the unit. The water passes through a metal pad where some of it is evaporated by the warm air from the furnace. The water that does not evaporate passes through the pad and enters a drain line.

The maintenance on these units includes cleaning/replacing the pad and cleaning the unit. They typically use more water than the drum type units to maintain a given humidity level.

The latest advancement in these units is called a pulsed flow through unit. This unit cycles the water solenoid valve open for a few seconds, closed for about 30 seconds and continues to repeat that cycle. This results in significantly less water usage.

The next type of unit is called a power humidifier. This type has it's own fan instead of using the furnace fan. The unit is mounted on the hvac system supply duct and does not require the furnace to be operating.

The final type of whole house unit is a steam humidifier. These units use a built in heater to heat a reservoir of water until steam is produced. This steam is then passed through a nozzle and into the duct system. These units usually have a higher capacity which is good for situations where the furnace does not operate very frequently.

Most units use a manual humidity control. This control is usually mounted on the furnace return duct or on the wall beside the home's thermostat. They normally come with a chart that tells you what to set the control on for a given outdoor temperature range. The control has to be constantly manually adjusted to match outdoor conditions. This is typically not done and results in unsatisfactory operation.

For that reason, it is better to connect the unit to an automatic humidity control. These units combine an indoor humidity sensor with an outdoor temperature sensor. They automatically adjust the setpoint to the recommended level for the given outdoor temperature.

There are different sizes of units, therefore you need to choose the right size for your home. The units are rated in gallons per day (gpd). This is the maximum amount the unit can put into the air in one day. The actual amount depends on how much time the furnace operates and the temperature of the air leaving the furnace.

In general, five pints of water added to the air of a 1000ft2 home, will raise the humidity level from 15% to 60%.

There are basically four types of portable humidifiers. The first are called ultrasonic units. These units have a fan that pulls in air from the room. An ultrasonic transducer causes the water in a reservoir to vibrate and some of the water is absorbed by the air. This air with moisture mixed in it is delivered back into the room.

The next type is commonly referred to as cool mist units. These units typically have a fan to draw in air and an impeller that flings water droplets up into the airstream. Some of the water drops are absorbed and leave the machine in the air stream.

The next type are called warm mist units. These units work like the cool mist units except they have a built in heater to increase the amount of moisture added.

The final type is referred to as evaporative units. These units consist of a reservoir of water and a wick. This wick draws water from the tank and a fan blows air through the wick where the air picks up moisture. In general, this type of unit requires more maintenance than the other types and on most models you must periodically purchase replacement wicks.

Furnaces

Your furnace is designed to automatically add heat to your home. By understanding some basics, you can help it to do this efficiently. This will help you to keep some of your hard earned money in your pocket. To explore your options in heating the garage, we have a separate page for that.
There are several types of units and they are usually grouped by the type of fuel they use. Some of the common types include gas, oil, wood, biomass, and electric.
A special type is used in mobile homes. They use special venting and duct systems and are certified for use in manufactured homes.
Residential gas fired forced air heating system.
These units burn either natural or liquified petroleum (lp) gas. The heating cycle starts when the thermostat senses that the room temperature is below the setpoint. On newer units, this causes an inducer fan to pull air through the unit establishing adequate combustion airflow. After proper airflow is verified, the gas valve is opened allowing gas to flow. The gas flows through the burners where it is ignited by a spark or the heat from the ignitor. (Older units have what is called a standing pilot which is a small flame that burns constantly to light the gas.)
After the unit senses the flame is lit, the spark or ignitor is turned off. Normally, the gas will burn for approximately two minutes before the blower is started. This prevents blowing cold air out the vents at the start.
After the preset time or at a set temperature, the blower motor is energized and air is blown over the heat exchanger. The air is heated and supplied to the duct system.
When the thermostat senses that no more heat is required, the gas valve is deenergized and the gas is shut off. The blower motor usually runs for another few minutes to cool off the heat exchanger. This can be controlled by either a timer or a temperature switch.
A gas furnace has an input rating that is expressed in btu per hour. This is how the size of the unit is expressed. Common sizes are 40000, 60000, 80000, 100000, and 120000 btu/hr. It is absolutely critical that your unit is the proper size for your home. A load calculation is performed to find the right unit for your specific home.
Not all of the heat that is available from the gas is put into the home's air. The ratio of the heat output of the unit to the heat content of the gas supplied is the unit's efficiency or afue. AFUE is short for annual fuel utilization efficiency and is expressed as a percentage. Some common efficiency ratings are 80%, 90%, etc. A higher efficiency unit requires less gas to heat the home and therefore your utility bill is lower.
There are several classes of gas furnaces. Most manufacturers still produce non-condensing models. These units have only one heat exchanger. These units are the least efficient at about 80% and are sometimes referred to as mid efficiency units. These units use metal pipe to exhaust the combustion products from the home. With the price of fuel these days, it is not a good idea to purchase one of these units.
The next class is referred to as high efficiency units. There is no standard as to when a manufacturer can use this phrase to describe their furnace. Therefore, you have to look at the details. In general, for a unit to be considered high efficiency, it should be a condensing furnace. These units have two heat exchangers to get more heat from the unit. Their efficiency rating (afue) is at least 90%. These units extract heat from the exhaust products of the furnace. This produces water which is called condensate. They collect this water and deliver it to a drain system outside the furnace.
The last class is where the units have added features built into them. One such feature is called a variable speed blower motor. In these units a sensor monitors the speed of the blower and adjusts the power supplied to it to provide a desired speed. These blowers are usually quieter and more energy efficient.
Another added feature is where the unit has two gas input rates. These are called two stage furnaces. On the first stage the unit burns less gas and this helps to more closely match the heating load. On the coldest days, the unit can increase it's output by switching to the second stage firing rate. An advantage of these units is that you normally have longer run cycles which can provide more uniform temperatures throughout the home. These units usually have a slightly higher afue rating. Most of the manufacturers combine this feature with the variable speed blower.
Some advanced units, called modulating gas furnaces, have variable gas input rates. This allows them to very closely match the heating requirements of the home. Usually the units have a built in control that, after a preset amount of operation, increases the gas input. This is continuously done to match the load.
The most advanced units are part of a CHP system and produce electricity while they heat the home.
Oil Fired Furnaces
Next, we will look at oil fired furnaces. The heating cycle for these systems starts with the thermostat sensing the need to add heat. This energizes a burner motor which pulls fuel oil from a tank and combines it with the proper amount of air. At the same time a spark is generated by an ignition transformer. The oil passes through a nozzle which has a very small hole and a tiny screen in it. This breaks up the oil and causes it to vaporize so it can be ignited by the spark.
After a delay to allow the heat exchanger to warm up, the blower motor is energized. This draws air into the unit and passes it over the heat exchanger where it is heated. The air is then sent into the duct system to be distributed throughout the home. The blower is normally turned on and off by a temperature switch. This switch also will shut the unit off if the unit overheats.
After the thermostat is satisfied, the burner motor is deenergized and oil flow is stopped. The blower motor continues to run until the heat exchanger is sufficiently cooled.
Corn Burning Furnaces
These units burn shelled corn to produce the heat. They usually have a small flame burning constantly once the unit is lit for the first time of the season. When the thermostat senses a need for heat, two augers and a combustion blower are energized. These augers transfer the shelled corn from a storage bin to the furnace. The combustion blower establishes draft and provides the proper amount of air to burn the corn.
After the heat exchanger is warmed up, a temperature switch turns the blower motor on. This pulls air into the unit where it is warmed and transferred to the supply duct system.
When the corn is burned it produces ashes. Typically it produces one pound of ash for each 100 pounds of corn burned. These ashes fall into a pan where they are collected.
When the thermostat is satisfied, the augers and combustion blower are shut off. The blower motor runs until the furnace is cooled down. Then the temperature switch shuts it off.
Electric Furnaces
These units produce heat from electricity flowing through special wires called elements. Unlike the other units, these units are 100% efficient. All of the electricity is used to produce heat. The size of these units is expressed in kilowatts instead of btu/hr.
When the thermostat senses a need for heat, a relay energizes the element and the blower motor. Some units use more than one heating element. These units have other relays to turn on the other elements.
When the thermostat is satisfied, the relays are deenergized. After a short time delay, the elements and fan are shut off.
Packaged Units
Some units are combined with the air conditioning system and are referred to as packaged air conditioners. Units that combine a gas furnace with the air conditioner are commonly called gaspacks. The main advantage of them is that all of the equipment is located outside the home. Therefore, no valuable floor space is used for the hvac system. The main disadvantage of them is that they are usually less efficient. Typically the gas furnace section has an AFUE of 80%.
Other units combine electric heating elements with the air conditioning system. They have the same advantage as gaspacks without the loss in efficiency. The main disadvantage is that, in some areas, an electric heating system may cost more to operate than gas.
Some units combine a heat pump with a gas furnace and they are called hybrid systems. They can be more cost effective to operate.

Heat pump

A heat pump works like a normal central air conditioning system. The main difference is that instead of taking the colder months off, the unit must work all year long. When your thermostat senses a need for cooling, the fan in the furnace or air handler comes to life. This fan blows air over a coil containing refrigerant. The outdoor unit contains a pump which is called a compressor. This compressor pumps the refrigerant to the air handler where heat from the air is transferred to the refrigerant. Then the refrigerant is returned to the outdoor unit.

Here another fan pulls air over another coil and the heat is transferred to the outdoor air. This process is repeated over and over until the home is cool.

To provide heat to the home a few components are added to the basic air conditioner. A reversing valve is added to change the direction of refrigerant flow. In the heating mode, this makes the refrigerant temperature higher then the indoor temperature. Therefore, when the refrigerant flows to the indoor unit, heat is transferred to the homes' air.

When it gets below freezing outside, ice can build up on the outdoor coil. This reduces the units' ability to provide the required heat. Therefore, a process is required to melt this ice.

That process is called a defrost cycle. Most units use a timer, a thermostat, or a combination of the two to control this process. When the control senses the need, the outside fan is stopped and the reversing valve directs the hot refrigerant to the outdoor coil. This causes the ice to melt and the process is stopped by another thermostat in the outdoor unit.

To keep from blowing cold air into the home, during this process, backup heat is provided by the furnace.

If you live in an area where it regularly drops below freezing, these units may not be right for you.

If you do live in these areas, you can use these units. But, it is usually a good idea to have a control installed so the unit does not run when it is freezing. This is called an outdoor thermostat. When the outdoor temperature drops below its' setpoint, it can shut off the outdoor unit and use the furnace to provide the required heat.

The latest thing on the market is called a hybrid heat system. This system combines a heat pump with a gas furnace. This control senses which type is more cost effective and switches back and forth as conditions change.

Because these units provide both heating and cooling, it is even more important that you have the proper size. The wrong size unit will steal money from your pocket the whole year long. That can add up in a hurry.

To keep the system running in the most efficient manner, some maintenance is required. Most dealers will provide a service contract but, with some help, you can perform the recommended maintenance. This will also make your system last longer.

Air Filters

Air filters protect your hvac system. When we work in a dirty environment, we usually wear a mask to protect our lungs. The filters in your hvac system have the same function. The filter in your hvac system has two main functions. First it helps to improve your home's indoor air quality.

This can improve the health of your family. According to the U.S. EPA, the air inside your home can be 2 to 5 times worse than the air outside.

The second thing they do is to keep your hvac system clean. If the dirt gets through the filter it can clog your furnace's secondary heat exchanger. This can happen if you have a condensing type furnace. If you don't have a condensing type furnace, the dirt will collect on your ac unit's evaporator coil.

Either way, this restricts air flow. This in turn can cause higher temperatures during heating system operation and premature failure of parts. During cooling operation, the operating efficiency will be reduced, your electric bills will go up, and it will cause more wear and tear on system parts.

The filter is usually located in one of the following places:

1. In a grille in your wall or ceiling. These are commonly called return air filter grilles.

2. In a slot on the side, bottom or top of your furnace. It depends on the style of furnace you have.

3. Inside the blower compartment of the furnace. This is common on older furnaces. Most manufacturers do not recommend this on new furnaces.

Air filters have a standard rating. This rating, minimum efficiency reporting value (MERV), is a number from 1-16. You don't have to know all the technical jargon. Simply put, as the number goes up the unit will stop more and smaller particles.

If you decide to replace your existing air filter with one of a higher MERV rating, you should check to make sure you have sufficient airflow after you replace it. This is done by checking the temperature rise in the heating mode and the temperature drop in the cooling mode.

Many hvac units come with a washable type of filter. These will usually be made of foam. These have a merv rating of 1 to 4.

You can also use a disposable type which is normally made of fiberglass. These have a merv rating of 1 to 4.

Usually you can hold those types of filters up and see through them. If that is the case, you know they are not doing their job.

Another disposable type is the pleated filter. These have a merv rating of 5 to 8. These products have more surface area to catch the dirt. They also distribute the airflow more evenly. This means the fan is less likely to pull the dirt through the filter. This is the type of filter that we recommend for most applications. They are the best value in terms of price for the filter and keeping your hvac system clean.

Air filters with the higher MERV ratings are sometimes called allergy filters.

Some are made of advanced materials which set up a static electrical charge. They are called electrostatic filters and are able to capture much smaller particles.

Some come with an antimicrobial treatment. This prevents organisms from living on the filter when they are trapped.

Using the right air filter is only half of the answer though. If it is not replaced often enough, your hvac system operating efficiency will go down. This will cost you on your utility bills as well as wear and tear on the hvac unit.

Most people, even those in the hvac industry, don't change their filter as often as they should. It is usually out of sight and out of mind.

Most hvac service companies offer service contracts where they change your filter. These contracts can be expensive when you consider you can do it yourself.

There are other options if you have special needs such as allergies. The ultimate filter is called a high efficiency particulate air filter(HEPA). These remove virtually everything but the replacement elements can be expensive unless you shop around.

You should also keep in mind that if the filter is a part of the central hvac system and the fan is not continuously running, then most of the time the filter will not be doing anything.

Bologna

The hallmarks of Italy’s artisanal tradition–creativity, innovation, craftsmanship–go back at least 3,000 years, to when Etruscans fashioned extraordinary works with bronze and Romans excelled in mosaics and glass.
Now travelers keen to avoid mass-produced generica can embrace a creative culture that puts a premium on the handmade, the painstakingly rendered, the movingly authentic. And with that they get a sense of the real, enduring Italy.
In the 1930s and ’40s, Bologna was the capital of finely crafted men’s shoes, led by such distinctive manufacturers as Testoni and Lemanni. Few of the 1,850 workshops from that time remain; after 1970, industrialization replaced shoe workshops with factories.

One pair out of around one thousand handmade shoes crafted each year at Peron & Peron (Photograph by Masanao Okubo)

But not at Peron & Peron, a workshop that painstakingly crafts handmade shoes to order—about a thousand a year, 80 percent for male customers. Simone Peron, currently at the company’s helm, took over from his father, Bruno.
“The passion for this work is in our DNA,” Peron says. “We go visit a client’s home and try to establish a sense of him, observing his clothing, his furnishings. We have to be both good artisans and good psychologists.”
Tall wooden cases that display footwear in all shades of brown and black (with an occasional blue outlier) greet visitors to the small shop. The shoes are studies in types of leather and hand-stitching techniques.
Many of Peron’s materials come from France, England, and Germany, but the methods and style are wholly Italian. Molds of each client’s feet are taken and later archived so that new pairs may be ordered from 
anywhere in the world.
Shoes crafted by Peron & Peron are of such quality that they earned the recent admiration of other master shoe crafters: the Japanese. “My greatest satisfaction,” Peron says, “is having brought my father’s name to such a distant land.”
> Peron & Peron (Piazza S. Francesco 14/a) is open 8:30 a.m.-12:30 p.m. and 5:30-7:30 p.m. (closed Thursday afternoon). Handmade shoes for men start at $1,000; for women, $800. 

More authentic buys in Bologna:

> Studio Fenice (Via Sant’Isaia 30/c)
Antique stained glass is reproduced and restored using centuries-old 
artisanal techniques.
> Bottega Prata (Via Caldarese 1/d)
Tables, chandeliers, and other 
wrought iron furnishings take artful shape in this family workshop.
> Crete Pièce Unique (Via de’ Giudei 3/b)
Fanciful ceramics and jewelry 
depicting corals, flowers, and 
more reenvision nature.
This piece was written by Isabella Brega, the executive editor of National Geographic Traveler’s Italian partner magazine, Touring, and ran, in adapted form, in Traveler‘s February/March 2014 issue.